Rubber cement

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Rubber cement is a strong adhesive which is usually used to glue latex sheeting from 0.6 mm thickness and up. I use it as well for thinner latex sheeting, from 0.3mm and up.

The solvents in the rubber cement quickly evaporate what makes the gluing fast and easy, but it should also remind you of keeping your glue container closed, because it easily dries out.

If your glue gets by time to thick and makes it to difficult for you to apply it on the latex sheeting, than mix it up with a thinner until you got the right consistence.

While you apply the glue, the latex sheeting will start to crinkle what is normal! You will have to wait a few minutes until it straighten itself out again and then its ready to be glued together.

Rubber cement is of course online available or as well in a lot of latex stores. I bought my rubber cement on my last trip to Berlin in the local Blackstyle store.

Warning! The fumes of the rubber cement are harmful! Make sure to have enough ventilation while working with it! Avoid open fires and extreme heat (candles etc.) as it is a higly flammable subsance.

46 Responses to “Rubber cement”

  1. Henrik Says:

    Hej Latex Kitty

    Dt er med stor interesse jeg følger alle jeres gode initativer for latex i DK. 1000 tak for det!!

    Jeres seneste tiltag med “making latex clothing” har jeg læst og set med særlig interesse.

    Hvor kan jeg købe Rubber Cement. Jeg har noget, men det er fra den lokale cykelsmed ;( Problemet ved der er, at der vulkaniserer ved påførelse og latexet og dermed krøller: Det cement du bruger virker langt bedre.

    Latexknus

    //Henrik og Nicoline

  2. Latex Kitty Says:

    Rubber cement will always have the effect that it will curl the latex when you apply it, that is normal and has a specific reason, which will be explained in one of my next posts. After you pllied the rubber cement you will have to wait until it is dry!!! The latex will then straighten itself out again.
    Since you are from Denmark, I can recommend you to check :
    http://www.skindhuset.dk (Copenhagen)
    http://www.laederiet.dk (Risskov)
    They call the rubber cement, Herkules cement. You can order online, the price is good! Get a catalog with, you will find a lot of things you might be interested in.

  3. Tony Says:

    Hi Latex Kitty,

    Thank you for the really, really super website. I would be interested in your opinion, over here in the UK we have a glue called Copydex. Copydex is latex based, water soluble and safe. It is sold just about everywhere: hardware stores, stationary stores etc. It is a general purpose glue for paper, cloth, wood and lots more – everyone knows Copydex. As it is liquid latex, I have tried gluing latex sheet and latex to cotton (for zips etc). It might not be as good as the special glue that you have, but I have been very, suprised at how well it works. The bond is strong immediately, but seems to take a day, to get really strong. I would be interested if you have a comment on Copydex I did not see one already on the web site?

  4. Latex Kitty Says:

    Hi.
    Well, the brandname Copydex appears not on the website, because I dont know it and never tried it. It is common in England, but I have never seen it here.
    Companies are always using their own brandnames even if they sell the same product with same quality. So dont think the adhesive I am using is anything special.
    I buy my latex milk/ rubber milk/ liquid latex etc. whatever people want to call it, also in a leather store. They use exactly the same, but might call it something different like their own brandname.
    Anyway, I just checked the Henkel SDS of Copydex to see what it actually is about, it tells me that Copydex contains Water, Ammonium Hydroxide and Natural Rubber Solids, which are the compounds required! After reading that, Copydex seems to be fine gluing the latex together. It is a pitty that it doesnt exactly say how many % of each compound it contains. But thats fine.
    The reason why it might take a day are chemical processes. Dont worry everybody faces that, even if they dont notice it, the bond becomes stronger after a couple hours or a day.

  5. stoozart Says:

    in response to the copydex. it can’t be used. it is water based liquid latex. although it is made from latex it can’t glue latex mad i know. i would recommend this ebay seller for your supllies in the uk its where i got the glue and the thinners which you can use to prepare the surface and clean your tools .http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Latex-Rubber-Adhesive-And-Thinners-For-Latex-Garments_W0QQitemZ350093379434QQihZ022QQcategoryZ165155QQcmdZViewItem

  6. Latex Kitty Says:

    hmmm…I have to say that I dont agree entirely on your argumentation.
    I agree that the solvent based adhesive you are linking to here, commonly known as rubber cement, is mostly used in making latex clothing. But it is not the only adhesive used. The water based adhesive which we have been talking about here, carries its own important part in making latex clothing. Although I never tried Copydex and cant speak for it, I have to say that the waterbased liquid latex is capeable of gluing rubber together, especially thin rubber. The thinner the rubber the easier is the use of waterbased liquid latex. The other advantage is, that you can glue cotton and rubber together with it.
    But I of course, wouldnt use it for rubber thicker than 0.35mm, because it cant guarranty a strong bond anymore at that point.

  7. loolah Says:

    Dear Latex Kitty, or anyone,

    Does anyone have any information on where to buy latex glue and thinners in Australia? Also, preferably, the name and suppliers?

    And does anyone know whether it’s possible to bring glue/thinners into the country? I would have thought their flammability would make them illegal.

    Many thanks
    loolah

  8. Rubberkitten Says:

    Howdy,

    The zipper strip on my blue rubber suit where the glue should be on popped off. Should i apply liquid latex(its black), wait till it dries then glue the zipper on? The break is from my waist to my cock.

    Oh and will the liquid latex peel?

    The only rubber shops near by are JTStockroom/Syren. Theres a rough trade but it doesnt carry rubber yet. Mr S. Store shut down here.

    Im from Los Angeles, CA.

  9. Rubberkitten Says:

    forgot to put this…

    The only idea i can think of is Home Depot but might not be for latex. Ive seen rubber cement there but doesnt say its for rubber. And if it did i wouldnt be sure if its for plumbing or other house things.

  10. yanina Says:

    Hi, im in Argentina and i have to import everything, please can you give some links to import the glue and the thinner?
    its good Best-Test White Rubber Paper Cement?

    thanks

    Yanina

  11. MdmMorte. Says:

    Is the rubber cement you refer to similar to the one you can buy at regular craft stores? I have pvc clothing that I’ve purchased, and I do have rubber cement, but I typically use that rubber cement to place pictures in scrap books. Perhaps an image would help, or a few familiar brand links so that I know what to look for?

  12. targia hulotov Says:

    I never knew the latex would uncurl itself from the initial curl caused by the glue. is that true? I should wait for it to uncurl? lol. here i been working fast as possible and getting the weights and getting it smoothed out before i place the weights on it. duh.elmers rubber cement is widely available and is cheap.you need the kind that has volatile fumes for you glue sniffers out there. make latex instead of model airplanes.

  13. Claire Evoot Says:

    Having huge problems trying to find rubber cement in UK.

    Does anyone know any sources and/or what it would be called? Other places have suggested B&Q but I am clueless as to what it would be called.

    Many thanks x

  14. Richard Says:

    It’s very hard to find the preferred “Bostik 3851 glue” in the Netherlands and besides that it’s only available in 5 liter buckets, which is quite big for just a hobby.
    Will “CallAll Photo glue” do the job as well? Accrding to the contents it’s Natural rubbers dissolved in white spirit. Does any one got any experience with it?

  15. Omar Says:

    i have been doing some tests using Super 77 adhesive from 3M. It is a spray rubber mount for graphic applications, but it is the strong permanent version, as opposed to the regular 3M spray mount. It seems to be working, but since it is a spray, it may need some masking. Since it is made by 3M, it is available pretty much everywhere in any art or graphic material store

  16. ngoni Says:

    doe anyone know were i can buy the glue for zippers i have latex cement bostik 3851 100ml bought from ebay uk they ship to europe i yhink now want the zipper glue or latex milk do not know the actuall name but i want to add zip to my latex garment

  17. Dolly Says:

    Hey. I’m just starting out making some latex garments and already i’m finding it incredibly hard to find latex glue to fix 0.40 latex together. I’m based in the uk.
    Can anyone help with a list of suppliers please?
    Many thanks xo

  18. PrurryKak Says:

    What’s up each, I’m contemporary to the forum and impartial wanted to translate hey.

  19. Rutilio S. Jimenez Says:

    I want a adhessive cement with contact rubber to rubber for use in rubberizing of acid tank.

  20. chelsea b Says:

    Hey latex kitty,

    I was wondering if you knew of any places in the US to buy latex glue and sheeting from? Its very costly to ship form the UK!!!

    thank you,
    Chelsea

  21. k Says:

    hi, i am new to making latex clothing and wonder if someone could clarify the different situations in which you would use liquid latex vs. rubber cement? i am looking to affix industrial latex trims (hazmat) to cloth.
    thanks.

  22. Dark Marcy Says:

    For all those wondering about whether Copydex can be used, I’ve just done a quick experiment impregnating a cotton-backed zip with Copydex and then gluing it to latex using regular vulcanising rubber solution (the kind you get in bicycle repair kits). It seems to be a very strong bond, and I’ve put the join under quite a lot of tension with no separation. Should be good news for anyone in the UK. I’m trying Copydex to fasten latex to latex, but that doesn’t look like it’s going to work, but will post again once I’ve given it 24hrs to dry.

  23. Latex Kitty Says:

    @Dark Marcy
    Thats good to hear! How did you tried to use copydex to join two latex pieces together? I assume copydex is latex milk and should do the job just like the stuff I am using.
    What does it say on the label what is in it?

  24. Latex Kitty Says:

    @k
    to apply latex to cloth requires the liquid latex. I am not quite sure what you are trying to apply.
    But you can impregnate your cloth with liquid latex and after it dried use the rubber cement to join two things together, which will create a really strong bond. But that is usually not required.
    I have a post about how to glue in a cotton backed zipper, which would basicly be the same.
    I hope that was a help for you.

  25. lat3x69 Says:

    @chelsea b

    I just bought latex sheeting from http://www.elasticaengineering.com/ they are in Canada and ship to the USA with reasonable prices. It should be here in a few days.

    Does anyone know if rubber cement from a craft store or bicycle tire cement will work for making latex clothing? Or do I need to get a special rubber cement? If so, does anyone know a good place online to purchase it from in the USA?

    Thanks!

  26. JuD Says:

    I’ve done a test with Copydex for latex to latex (0.4mm Radical Rubber in black), and 24 hours later it works fine. I don’t know how water resistant it is, but I’ve stretched the two pieces of latex quite a bit, and even attempted to pick the seam part with my thumbnail, and it’s definitely secure.

  27. xoxo Says:

    http://www.utrechtart.com/dsp_view_product.cfm?item=81102
    utrecht art supply has adhesives and will be in the USA.

  28. BristolTop Says:

    Copydex does work well for glueing latex.

    The technique is to thoroughly clean the surfaces to be joined – I use surgical spirit and scrub with a cotton maske-up removal pad.

    Brush a very thin layer of copydex onto both of the surfaces to be joined. Be careful because the brushmarks can be seen through thin latex (using a glue spreader might be a better idea, but I’ve not tried that)

    Before the copydex has dried make sure you move the piece a little bit – otherwise any bits where you have gone over the edge will form little bobbles.

    Leave the copydex to dry until it is transparent, no white showing at all. Resist any temptation to speed up the process. Dont blow on it, dont use a hairdryer…

    Then carefully bring your joints together. You can reposition if you’ve not squeezed them together too tightly, but dont bank on it.

    Once the seams are together, go over them with one of those little rollers you’re supposed to use on wallpaper seams.

    You don’t need to leave the seam 24 hours or anything, but I guess they might be stronger if you do.

    Cheers,

    Doug

  29. Lourens Says:

    Hi Guys,

    Just observing the comments here.

    The discussion here is about Water based Latex glues versus Solvent based Latex glues.

    The rule of thumb appears to be that Solvent based glues should be used for any Latex sheeting over .35mm. Which is a good rule of thumb if you want to eliminate any possibility of come back from clients.

    This having been said, I have been making latex clothing for some years now and have always made my clothing with water based latex glue as it is, for me, easier to use. I can confirm that I have had no problems using water based latex glue on .5mm material as I have had no issues/comeback.

    One thing I was told when I first started out is that water based glue (as opposed to solvent based latex glue) will come apart in water. So I think this may be the real problem. But don’t get me wrong, water based glues when properly applied to .5mm sheeting is very very very strong. But there is the possibility it may come apart if immersed in water for a long period of time… and lets face it… there is a possibility ever so slight when manufacturing catsuits etc.

    Good luck

    Lourens

  30. Kniller Says:

    Don’t know if this is any use to anybody:-

    http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=250670056948&ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT

    Works a treat for me. UK only tho I think.

    Kniller

  31. Scarlet Says:

    Latex Kitty,

    Along with everyone else, I’m having a difficult time finding the best adhesives to use. I’m in the US and have heard many unfavorable things about the products from MJTrends so i’m trying to avoid purchasing from there. Quality is of the utmost importance so I want a Rubber cement, thinner, and cleaner that are going to give me the best quality possible. A specific brand name would be incredibly helpful. Thanks :)

  32. rob Says:

    Thanks for all the info. Excellent help!
    Just got my supplies!
    I got some of the bostik rubber cement.
    Can I use white spirit to thin it down a bit? as it is very thick out of the tin. Thanks very much
    Rob

  33. Steve Says:

    Has anyone tried the glue we used to patch our tubes on our bikes also for car tire tubes and plug patches.Steve

  34. Latex Kitty Says:

    @rob: Yes, you can use heptane/white spirit as a thinner.

  35. Niki Says:

    Hello :)
    I am wondering if someone can tell me what I am doing wrong?! This is my first time making latex clothing, I have purchased a kit that includes both thinner and glue. Firstly, No, I am not mixing up the thinnger for the glue lol I triple checked! I can NOT get a strong bond at all … it is VERY easy to pull the seams apart with barely any tension on the latex at all. I have ensured the latex is clean, aswell as my workspace and that I am allowing the glue to dry before putting the seams together …

    any suggestions?

  36. Mikey Says:

    After applying glue to both surfaces the latex always
    curls back on itself. I know you said this is normal,
    but the problem is that the latex ends up getting stuck
    to itself in the curled back position, and trying to
    straighten it out so that I can glue it to the other
    piece often ends up in a big mess. Is there any way to
    stop the latex from curling back on itself?

  37. Mikey Says:

    Thanks

  38. Latex Kitty Says:

    @Mikey: Use some masking tape to keep the latex from curling back on itself.

  39. aldo Says:

    @Niki Hello,
    I seem to experience the same bonding problem. I took a closer look at garments I bought and seems are reinforced with a thiner strip of rubber at the edges. Pieces glued on as ornaments and where one can find an edge can be pulled apart with ease.
    Suggestion I received: direction you smear the glue (with the tension not against), degreasing the latex with a degreasing agent and time you leave the glue to dry before putting the seems together.
    NOTE:I am no expert and not a garment maker, I wanted to do some repairs to garments and add a few extra detail to others. I will do a few tests.

  40. Masters Latex Kitten Says:

    I was wondering if I were to go out to say home depot, what would be your best suggestion for a rubber cement?

  41. Skindhuset Says:

    Try and take a look!

  42. TheOne Says:

    Hi Latex Kitty,

    In one of your replies, you mentionned that :
    “Copydex contains Water, Ammonium Hydroxide and Natural Rubber Solids, which are the compounds required! After reading that, Copydex seems to be fine gluing the latex together. It is a pitty that it doesnt exactly say how many % of each compound it contains.”

    I went myself to my nearest art store and when I saw the number of different rubber cement ( at least 3 kinds with solvent and the same number without solvent ), I thought it could be good to ask : for the solvent based glues, what minimal % of each compound should I look for ?

    Thanks in advance

    Cheers
    T.O.

  43. Devon A. Says:

    Hello everybody. After searching on google with no good result, I have decided to come here and ask. How do you deal with the cemment/glue spots from the clothing your are making? How do you remove all those messy spots? I tried with the mirela spirit but it doesnt work. Is there any special product that does this? I read other person here that have the same problem as I do with the rubber curling to itself and because of that not only the piece of clothing gets so messy but my fingers too. It can be a real pain. Any suggestions? Thank you very much.

  44. JP Says:

    In the US, the best Rubber Cement I’ve found is called Best-Test. It is available at many art supply stores, and several places online. http://www.dickblick.com/products/best-test-rubber-cement/#photos

    I wonder if elmer’s works as well.

  45. Latex Kitty Says:

    Thank you for the link :)

  46. rubbalad Says:

    I am selling bostik 3851 glue on ebay and also the copydex proper glue aquagrip 260

    buy it and go make them clothes!!!

    http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/rubbalad/m.html?_nkw=&_armrs=1&_from=&_ipg=&_trksid=p3686

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