Thanks to this little tutorial, you will be making latex clothing in no time!
Step 1: Clean the two surfaces using mineral spirit and a piece of cloth.
Step 2: Apply a thin layer of latex glue to both surfaces using a cotton bud.
Step 3: Let the glue dry for 5 minutes. Put the two surfaces together.
Step 4: Apply pressure to the seam using a seam roller.
That’s it!
Talcum, french chalk or baby powder (unscented) is a white powder which is used for dressing up in latex clothing, it lubricate it and makes it easier to put on.
When making your own latex clothing, it will prevent part from sticking together which shouldn’t. For example, if you just glued a really nice seam you can put some powder on the seam, to prevent any excess glue from sticking to the latex sheet. This is way easier than having to pull things apart afterward, especially if you use very thin latex or are a beginner.
Also called white spirit, is a mild solvent which is used in making latex clothing to prepare the to be glued parts for the next step. It removes oil, your pencil markings etc., everything what shouldnt be on there.
Heptane is a mild solvent which can also be used as cleaner. It finds its use as well as rubber cement thinner.
Take piece of cloth, dip it with the mineral spirit and gently clean the parts you want to glue together with the cloth. It might happen that the latex slightly bulge, but give it a few seconds and it will straighten out again.
If your latex sheeting got to much talkum powder on from the production, I recommend to wipe that at first of with a wet cloth and then use the mineral spirit. To make sure that you got it all and achieve strong seams.
Warning! The fumes of the mineral spirit are harmful! Make sure to have enough ventilation while working with it! In everyday use it causes skin irritation, wash your hands in between or wear a glove when often used. There are also Odorless Mineral Spirits available with less toxic compounds which are made for close and often work with the substance.
This is the white “glue” which should be used for latex sheeting which is thinner than 0.3mm (e.g. for stockings), because it will not crinkle the thin latex sheeting after you applied the glue and will make it easy to glue the pieces together. It is a water based adhesive where ammonia is added.
It does not evapurate as fast as the rubber cement, what means that after you applied the glue on the latex sheeting, you will have to wait to put the two pieces finally together. When the white latex milk on the latex sheeting turns transparent and there is no more white to see, then the glue is ready and will give your seam a strong connection. That may take 1-2 minutes.
If your glue gets to thick after some time, then just thin it out with water. Easy!
Be carefull with your clothing, you will not get the glue out again! If you have it on your workspace, just wipe it of with some paper and afterwards rub the rest of with your flat hand.
The white latex milk is available online in some moddeling and masking stores, leather crafting stores or at latexmanufactures and stores, like Blackstyle where I got mine from.
Warning! The fumes of the white latex milk are harmful! It might be natural rubber milk but it cotains harmful chemical substances to keep it in its consistence, e.g. ammonia. Make sure to have enough ventilation while working with it!
Rubber cement is a strong adhesive which is usually used to glue latex sheeting from 0.6 mm thickness and up. I use it as well for thinner latex sheeting, from 0.3mm and up.
The solvents in the rubber cement quickly evaporate what makes the gluing fast and easy, but it should also remind you of keeping your glue container closed, because it easily dries out.
If your glue gets by time to thick and makes it to difficult for you to apply it on the latex sheeting, than mix it up with a thinner until you got the right consistence.
While you apply the glue, the latex sheeting will start to crinkle what is normal! You will have to wait a few minutes until it straighten itself out again and then its ready to be glued together.
Rubber cement is of course online available or as well in a lot of latex stores. I bought my rubber cement on my last trip to Berlin in the local Blackstyle store.
Warning! The fumes of the rubber cement are harmful! Make sure to have enough ventilation while working with it! Avoid open fires and extreme heat (candles etc.) as it is a higly flammable subsance.
You will need the metal seam roller to give your glued seams a strong connection and as well to get airbubbles out of the seam, which might occure from time to time. After you glued your seams and pressed them slightly with your finger together, you will take the seam roller and roll it with light pressure over the seam. Done!
I prefer the metal seam rollers, because they are heavier and more stabile than the plastic once. I bought mine in a leather crafting shop, but you can as well easily order them online. Plastic rollers are available in almost any home improvement store.
It is more handy to have a “smaller” roller if it comes to the seams, especially the curved seams. My current one which you can see on the image is a little to wide if you ask me, but great if you want to double glue some bigger pieces.
What pencils should I use to draw on the latex sheeting? You can use almost any kind! Just remember to remove everything after you cutted out the latex to avoid stains!
Example:
If I have to draw on black latex or any other dark colored Latex sheeting, I will use either a white or silver paintmarker or a regular ballpoint pen (which will of course make it more difficult for you to see it afterwards).
For light colors would I recommend to stay with the white or silver paintmarker or if you got good eyes to use a regular pencil (but please dont sharpen it to much).
White and transparent latex will stain very easily! Use the paintmarker or pencil and clean it immediately after cutting it out!
Latex sheeting is made from natural rubber latex plus essential processing chemicals and pigments. Natural latex, as found in nature, is the milky sap from the rubber tree (Hevea Brasiliensis), which was found originally in the tropical climates of South America and is now cultivated in Southeast Asia.
Latex sheeting comes in a long range of colors, translucence and thicknesses. Normally delivered on wide rolls (92-100 cm) of up to 10 metres in length or more. Designs and logos can be printed on latex sheeting using silk-screen print technique.
Storage and use:
Store below 26° C. away from damp conditions and away from heaters. Store away from natural light. UV rays can break down the sheet and cause fading. Avoid contact with copper and copper alloys. These cause staining. Avoid contact with oils, solvents and greases which will destroy natural rubber.
Health hazards:
Sheeting is generally considered non-hazardous. However some people have an allergic reaction to the proteins in natural rubber latex. Persons with the allergy should avoid contact with natural rubber latex sheeting.
Fire Hazard:
Natural rubber latex sheeting is flammable. It should be protected from naked flames and non-smoking restrictions in areas where it is being worked on are advisable.
See my list of suppliers of latex sheeting…
Everybody knows what a ruler is, a instrument with a straight edge, used for making precise drawings and measure certain distances.
To help you get your pattern perfect you need three types of rulers:
